Day 29: making it to Independence

Again, the vividness and tangibility of my dreams is surprising me. Where are such (sometimes ghastly) visions coming from? One thing to say about strong dreams is this: at least you know you are sleeping deeply.

 

It’s staying dark longer than it was at the beginning of my trip, and I’m waking up in semi-darkness. In that soft, quiet time I did my morning meditation, and broke camp by 6:45. I had some uphill climbing to do, all headed east to make it over Kearsarge Pass, which crosses the Sierra Crest and offers a route into or, in my case, out of the mountains and down to Owens Valley. It was fast, and I was at the trailhead by 11am. This despite stopping to chat with several of the many hikers coming up the trail.

 

I was excited for town. I was hungry and looking forward to food not in bar form. The first group to come out of the trailhead, four guys who had spent five days climbing and fishing out of the Kearsarge Lakes area just west of the pass, gave me a ride down another one of those winding roads out of the mountains to the valley below. I only had to wait about fifteen minutes, and have been pleased with my good fortune on the hitches so far on this trip. They dropped me at the post office in Independence, where my resupply boxes had just apparently arrived that morning (so said the post master). I got a room in a small, local motel and had the best shower anyone has ever taken in the history of the world and did the best laundry anyone has ever done in the history of the world. The town of Independence has almost nothing in it: two oddly-stocked convenience stores, a strange co-op with mostly empty shelves, and a taco truck. And somehow, all these things are spread out a quarter mile from one another. I had two meals at the taco truck, which turned out to be a lot of walking on the highway. The tacos are quite good though.

 

I’m taking a rest day here tomorrow, to prepare for the final leg of my trip. I have one more nine day section to Road’s End, where I finish my hike. Originally I had planned for a fifty day journey, but I’ve been faster than I anticipated and it looks like it will take right around forty days to complete. My plane ticket home is bought, so the end date is firm. I should come out of the mountains on the 16th and fly home on the 17th.

 

I do want to say that I’ve been touched and honored by the comments and emails I’ve received, so thank you for your communications. It is, of course, nice to know that someone is listening.

 

Looking south from the morning’s climb.

 

 

 

Lovely morning tarn

Comments

7 responses to “Day 29: making it to Independence”

  1. Daya Goldschlag

    Dearest Katherine: I am listening, with all my heart. Have been away, in a cabin on a lake in Wisconsin with Ted’s 96 yr old mom. Very sweet. Glad to come home to my laptop to find you are still safe and walking. I send love to embrace you for these last 9 days. Stay warm enough. Daya

  2. Kris Wheeer

    My dear dancing hiker,
    I have followed (most of) your posts with delight and awe.
    I love your writing – stye and story – and love the pictures.
    You have the makings of a book here!
    I wish you a safe final leg of your trek and looking forward to dancing with you again soon!
    much love, Kris

  3. Janet Cook

    Katherine Dear- thank you for taking the time to write about your adventures. I so much look forward to your posts. Sleep well. Enjoy the rest of your time in the mountains.

    Love ya
    Janet

  4. Hi Katherine. I am curious how you mentally handle the possibility of a large animal in camp at night ( bear, cougar ) when you are miles from anyone else ? When I go backpacking solo in the North Cascades I do fine in my outlook……. until ……..late at night when I am camped off trail, its pitch dark, I am alone and the quiet is broken by noises ( usually mice or deer )…

    What are you doing with your food when there are no trees around for hanging it ? Are you carrying a bear barrel on the whole trip ? Some PCT hikers I understand –sleep with it beside them to protect it……

    thank you.
    bruce

    1. I’m not very troubled by large animals in camp (not yet anyway). Every bear or cougar encounter I’ve had have been only curious and exciting, not frightening. I have been almost exclusively in areas that require the use of bear canisters for food storage, so I have been carrying one for the last thirty days and will through the end of the trip. I leave it outside the tent at night, but not once has a bear come to play with it.

  5. Francesca Firstwater

    Dear Lady, I am listening!!…and weaving your words and process into the journey across the terrain of my own life….very grateful for your generosity of thought and feeling…your reflections continue to stir me awake…thankyou and be blessed!!

    1. Thank you Francesca!

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