Day 21: swift descent into Lone Pine

Would you believe me if I said I had a most excellent night of sleep last night? I mean world class, solid, heavy, self-obliterated kind of sleep. I treated myself to 400 mg of ibuprofen before bed, something I almost never do out here (only once before on this trip have I taken any), because I’ve been dealing with stomach trouble the last year and I’d rather not irritate it. But an ankle tendon was perturbed enough to warrant it. I don’t know if it was the ibuprofen but that sleep was delicious. I finally broke one of themes of this leg of my journey. I didn’t even wake to reinflate my ground pad until it was about time to rise.

After stretching out, packing my near-weightless backpack now that I’ve eaten all the food, and setting off, I quickly made it over New Army Pass, down to the east side of the mountains past lakes and cliffs and drier, arid countryside. Past a lot of people as well, which bode well for a quick hitch out of the Cottonwood Lakes Trailhead and down into Lone Pine. By 11am, I had hiked the 9 miles and arrived eager to find a ride. Just as I was setting my pack down, a couple hikers came off the trail behind me. I asked if they were going to Lone Pine and might I get a ride, and they said they also were looking to hitch. I noticed they had ice axes strapped to their packs, which has become an emblem of high route trekkers in these mountains, and asked what they were hiking. Turns out they were also hiking the Southern Sierra High Route and I was a day behind them the whole time. They had a slow day yesterday and I must have passed them this morning. It was funny to discover that all those days when I felt I was the only human to be treading all these places, I wasn’t too far behind another pair of travelers. We compared notes about our experiences while waiting to hitch, and ended up securing a ride for all of three of us with a pair of hikers I chatted with on the trail earlier in the morning. The drive down from the trailhead to Lone Pine is exhilarating and terrifying, like a car easily just tip off the unguarded edge of the road and tumble several thousand feet down the mountain side to the valley floor below. Thankfully we didn’t. I was dropped off at the hostel in town and bade them all a fond farewell.

Then on to the tasks of town: shower, laundry, post office for my package of food, a bacon cheeseburger, and of course posting to the blog. I’ll take a rest day here tomorrow, for I have more bacon cheeseburgers to eat. Those things aren’t going to eat themselves.

Trying a new way to put my pack on.

Comments

12 responses to “Day 21: swift descent into Lone Pine”

  1. Katherine, as Consuelo says, reading every word, marveling at magnificent photos and light, and watching the videos twice! I”d be interested to know how more of your time is spent on the trail (or bush whacking), in your mind and heart. Singing? Conversations with yourself, or others? Existential problems you’re contemplating? Math equations or solutions you’re framing? Visions for the coming year? Food you’re missing? Notes for the blog that night?
    Much affection for you and appreciation for your spirit to conceive and undertake such a wild and grand journey.

  2. Calvin Lau

    Hi Katherine,
    It was great to have met you last Tuesday as you breezed by us going to the trailhead. Glad we could give you a ride to the Youth Hostel in Lone Pine. We’ll stay in touch. I sent you a photo by email last week.
    Cal

  3. Alia

    Katherine dearest. I wrote a comment but it disappeared to some other universe.
    Another time I will wrote more.
    I am in awe and just amazed by you. Wow! xoxoxo

    1. Ah, bummer! I wish I could read it and look forward to another time. Thanks for this comment though! Means a lot to me that you are reading.

  4. Nita

    I am just catching up with you… back from adventures at Earthdance, arriving back on Vashon, and doing my taxes. I still haven’t figured out how to get the updates… I put in my email but it turns red. Maybe there is a list somewhere I need to be on. Not sure. At any rate, thank you for taking me by proxy, on your adventure. So generous. So enlivening.

    Oh, and I may have made a mistake … I went to the map and asked where you were… oops… thought it would show me. Seems you have to do something for me to know. Hope I didn’t interrupt your activities. Ignore the request if it gets your way. Clearly I have no idea how this works.

    Oh my, Katherine! Who knew a person could have so much fun putting on a back pack… Although what’s missing is how you get up. Would love that too, ha ha.
    Love the commentary from everyone. Its so amazing to read about your travels. Better than a novel.

  5. Steve O.

    I love that pack video! Thanks for sharing your adventures. I wish I had an ice axe.

    1. You can get one!

  6. Janet Cook

    Katherine: What incredible experiences you are having. I ached for you when you had those days of melancholy, fatigue, and crappy sleep. What can you do but walk it off. I am so happy you’Re getting a much deserved rest day. Maybe you should do 2 days, eh? Today, your rest day, you are in my heart more than ever. Your dad is in Texas doing that FEMA thing. Tonight I plan to eat ice cream in your honor! Take care dear one. I love you so much, and am damn proud of you.

    Janet

    1. Thanks Janet! I thought about two rest days but I almost got that, since I stopped hiking yesterday at 11. As you say, it’s all included, and walking with it is the way. Love you too, and hope Dad isn’t in Texas too long (though it sounds like he could be).

  7. Hi Katherine……very glad to see you are getting a zero day. Thank Heavens !!. : ) Any comments on your equipment / food choices so far ?

    1. Hi Bruce. Yes, Deeply Grateful for the miracle of rest. As for equipment and food, my gear has generally been spot on and is the same kit I usually carry for long hikes with a couple additions.

      1. Bear can–requires by the powers that be. Heavy but tolerable, and even convenient when a campsite is rodent infested.
      2. Ice axe: was necessary twice (self-arrest off Sky Pilot Col, though perhaps I could have avoided that mistake but whatever, and climbing the Mountaineer’s Route on Whitney), and extremely helpful a few other times. I’m glad and have it and will carry through the end I think, since there are still a lot of steep, lingering snow fields, but I did meet one SHR northbound section hiker who didn’t have one and was still going.
      3. Micro-spikes: used a lot. They are becoming less and less helpful as I travel south and the snow is getting softer, but for a while I was using them multiple times a day. Again, perhaps could live without them but I’m very glad I have them and will carry them through the end.

      If this were a normal snow year, by now I would almost certainly ditch the axe and spikes, but we hike in the conditions that we find.

      Also, as things get colder, I’m having a sleeping bag liner and warmer down jacket sent to me in the next couple resupplies, but I’m easily and quickly cold. One additional note on that: I do have a full rain suit, and have gotten rained on probably half of my days out here. I’ve used the jacket for that, but not needed the pants. However, I have used the pants for bug protection and warmth in camp, and am glad to have them.

      My food has been just fine. Usually I shop as I go because I dislike packing up all the boxes before a trip, but the stuff I sent myself is holding up well. I perhaps erred to far on the side of a lot of fat and less carbohydrate, as a result of some dietary choices I was exploring to address a stomach problem in the months before the hike started. I’m probably eating around 3000 calories a day, about 1.5 lbs of food per day, involving a mix of bars, nuts, dried fruit, coconut butter-nut bars (for breakfast, homemade), crackers, salami, and one cooked meal at night. I’ve also been drinking a mix of powdered collagen and magnesium, and I think (hope) the collagen has been helpful for my joint health.

      Long comment, but hope it’s clarifying. Thanks for reading!

  8. Consuelo Gonzalez

    Katherine, avidly following every step, every word, every photo and video! Love your new ways of putting on your pack! My body happy for your sleep and cheeseburgers! Continued blessings on your adventure!

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